So we were going down to Cornwall this weekend again and I was keen to get over to Roche rock. We'd never been before and one attraction for non-climbers (the rest of my family) was a 14th century monastery built into the rock!!
Some of the routes were up to 20 metres, most fairly low grade, up to a maximum of E4. There was very limited bouldering and most were routes. I was psyched to get started so started on a climb slightly too hard for me to feel comfortable soloing. I backed down and started up another route. This was a 20 metre VS 4c and was one of the classics of the crag. It was an intense climb with some brilliant movements! The rock was also amazing! The rock is very rare and I believe unique: it's is a form of crystalline granite except the feldspar and mica have been removed and replaced with tourmaline (I don't get it either!).
I also did another couple of much shorter routes, only around 9 metres and tried a hard E3 which I couldn't even start in the rain!
I would definitely recommend this crag as the rock quality is excellent with some amazing routes on! I'm so psyched to get back there and do some more routes!!